I have built several models of the Millennium Falcon and on each of them, my weathering and painting the model have gotten better. I’m working up to building the Bandai Perfect Grade kit, which I have assembled multiple times for a friend, but never fully painted.
The technique I’m going to describe differs from what you will read from other builders and experts. This technique works for me, and I have been very happy with my most recent builds.
As with any project, the primary task is observation. For modelers, that means looking at tons of reference materials. You will use the same eyes to look at your model as it nears completion, so you need to train your eyes on the images you like best. There are entire websites devoted to the “correct” colors to paint your Millennium Falcon model. Let me say that the correct colors are the colors that look best to your eye. You are the artist here.
Painting this model is not a simple recipe that can be assembled from a list of colors or a template. Each Millennium Falcon model is unique. Even the filming miniatures differ quite a bit in color and detail. That said, a few tips from my experience might be useful to some.
Starting off, after assembly, I mask off the window areas and paint the entire model with Tamiya fine primer. Locally it costs $11, but it is worth it. Believe the hype. After that fully dries I paint the entire model with gloss white spray paint. Many will tell you that white is too bright, but with the weathering process I do, anything darker would make the model look terrible to me. I am not too worried about completely covering the tiny recesses or crevices behind the greeblies on the sides.
The wash and pigments, as well as shadows, will be enhanced by leaving these areas a little darker.
Once this is dry, usually overnight, I mask off and brush paint the colored panels of the model. (I have a very nice airbrush but I haven’t mastered that skill just yet.) I use Tamiya ¼’ tape as well as Post-it notes for larger areas. This works well on 1/72 or 1/48 scale models.
I use Vallejo model color paints, not because I think they are better, but because that is what is available to me locally. Vallejo colors also came highly recommended by a professional builder, one of our own Don Semora.
For the red panels, I use Hull red that I mix with primary red hobby acrylic to lighten the shade a bit. Again, I mix this so that it looks right to me. For the light grey I use Sky grey, and the darkest grey I use Medium Sea grey. There are some details on the Falcon that need to be picked out with a darker color. The carbon scoring on the starboard front of the saucer, the blast damage on the port side behind the sensor antenna, and many other areas that have significant damage need to be painted in. For this, I use Grey Black. I have found that straight black is too stark. While I’m here, let me say that I rarely use straight white either, and for the same reason.
Once I am content with the colored panels, I take a soft 1” brush and apply my own wash to a workable section of the ship. Some years ago, I made a Tupperware container full of wash solution. The solution is mostly water, with black, grey and dark brown paint mixed in. It is very thin and needs to be stirred because it settles out between uses. For this, I used simple hobby acrylics that I bought at Hobby Lobby. There are countless products on the market designed to fill this role, but my wash works fine for me.
As the wash creeps into all the cracks and crevices, it’s almost a living thing. The weathering is growing right in front of me. I use a linen handkerchief or a heavy paper towel to mop up, and coax the wash into or away from different areas. It is at this point that some of the streaking and panel discoloration begins to take shape. As I’m mopping up the wash, I can leave panels lighter, or allow them to be darkened.
At the end of this step, the model should still be light enough that further weathering will not overpower the colored panels or the light greys. With this type of wash, you can come back later with a moist paper towel or cloth and completely remove the color. Most of the binder is washed out of the paint by the very thin wash, it will be held in place by the top coat after the project is finished.
Usually the next day, I will begin working with pigments.
Tamiya makes a set called weathering master. They look like eye shadow and are available at Hobby Lobby. These are invaluable to the Falcon builder. The sets are labeled with letters, I have set C. It consists of Dark gunmetal, Silver and Orange rust. I use the dark gunmetal for almost all of the smoky weathering on the ship. I use this around the ship core, along the top front of the mandibles and the smoke and soot on the engine deck.
The engine deck is almost always over-weathered by modelers at all levels. The staining and soot are not nearly as dark as many portray them to be. Here, as well as other places on the ship, “less is more”. You can always add, It’s harder than hell to take it off once it’s there.
I have recently started to use watercolor pencils for the fine streaking on the hull panels. I have found it to be very effective and easy to control. I play with the weathering for a while, looking at it from different angles and in a different light. Once I’m happy with it and everything is dry, I lock it all down with matte finish clear spray paint. After the clear coat dries I remove the masking from the windows.
After the colored panels are painted, and before the wash, I chip the painted panels in a couple of different ways. I dab the base color over top with a sponge or toothpick, or I actually chip the panel by scratching through with a sharp object like a knife or pin. This reveals the color underneath. Then I proceed to the weathering.