Last week we received (upon request) a set of wheels from SKINNER RACING PRODUCTS in Oklahoma. The guy behind this is Kent Skinner. Kent was very kind and much obliged responded to my personal request. I like to showcase products from folks that are not that known (yet) in the modeling sphere and present their product to our followers.
Originally designed for slot cars -where weight like in the real thing is everything-, the all CNC aluminum hubs found their way into the 1/24 and 1/25 scale auto model builders. This is the Intro Wheel. It is .700 diameter and usually come between .400 to .500. The wheels are available in polished aluminum (used here) and for the moment Kent is providing a black anodized version upon request with your order.
The gallery of pictures below are submissions from satisfied customers from the USA and many other countries. For the time being, Kent is taking orders via Paypal thru his Facebook page linked below.
INSTALLATION OF THE SKINNER RACING PRODUCTS WHEELS
With so many model kit cars in my office, the question was which one? I ended up choosing the recently posted ’66 1/25 Nova from AMT.
As with most aftermarket accessories for *any* model, there is a bit of elbow grease needed. In the case of this wheel, it is not hard to assume that every situation will be different. Kent and partner Joey took into account the size of most rear axles provided with the plastic model kit autos. The holes on the wheels are a perfect match for the axles provided by AMT on the ’66 Chevy Nova. HOWEVER! The stock axle from the kit barely made it to the hex bolts provided (only on the rear wheels). Since we keep a little bit of everything in the shop, the issue was quickly resolved with a piece of aluminum tubing from K&S 1/16 —.014 (Stock 1008). The tubing fits like a glove on the wheel opening.
For the front wheels, I had to go drilling. I could have filed down the protruding part on the kit. But I knew that I was going to weaken the part. Trust me, with some ingenuity there are several ways to do this on your particular model. I decided to go the risky way and opened the holes of the front wheels with a 3/32” drillbit. If you decide to do it this way on your model, a word of advice: use a power drill with variable speed. Aluminum is soft and one can overshoot at high speed. Drill and check, drill and check, take your time 😉