The M163 Vulcan Air Defense System (VADS) mated the firepower of the United States Air Force’s standard aerial cannon – the M61 Vulcan – with the proven “go-anywhere” hull of the M113 Armored Personnel Carrier (APC). Its tracked nature ensured that the M163 could reach areas that were generally forbidden to wheeled systems of similar scope and function. Additionally, the firepower inherent in the M61 Vulcan Gatling cannon brought about hearty point defense deterrent against any low-flying enemy aircraft willing to enter its available kill zone. The M163 was formally accepted into US Army service in 1969 and went on to see export to several US-friendly nations during the Cold War.
Development of the M163 coincided with the development of the US Army’s other air defense project – the missile-minded MIM-72A/M48 “Chaparral”. The Chaparral system was also built atop the tracked M113 chassis and featured a forward-set cab for its operating crew and a positional, four-missile launch system mounting a surface-to-air version of the air-to-air AIM-9 Sidewinder short-ranged missile. The Chaparral served from 1969 to 1998 and nearly 2,000 examples were produced. The M163 Vulcan would be fielded alongside the M48 Chaparral to complete the network by providing a potent short-ranged “one-two” punch utilizing both homing missiles and voluminous fire.
[Via the Military Factory. More info on the M-163 Vulcan after this link.]
Here I wish to present one of our latest builds. This is the recently released Academy 1/35 scale M163 Vulcan Air Defense System. This is one among previously released versions of the M113 chassis. Is an oldie yet goodie chassis with some new sprues that still make this kit check out.
One of my initial observations was the fact that this kit does not enjoy the new instructions manuals included with the most recent Academy plastic model kits. The instructions though not difficult do require special attention because the kits can be built in different optional iterations. Some of the smaller parts placement and orientation are hard to distinguish. You will end up with a bunch of leftover parts and if you build from scratch especially sci-fi models, you’ll be pleased with the number of parts that will be destined to future projects. This could be *all me* and if you have similar (or different) thoughts on the instructions for this kit, I will really appreciate your input on the comments section below.
I know that injected figures included with most plastic model kits are not usually the best and many plastic model kit builders chose the aftermarket route. In my case, I always welcome figures on my kits. Those that I don’t use are removed from the sprues, cataloged and placed in small zip bags with the name of the kit in which they came from. More often than not I end up using them either on the kit itself or future projects. The figure seen with the kit was included in it and I painted it using an assortment of Mission Model Paints. I tried to depict as much as I could a long time friend of mine who was a paratrooper, mustache and all.
For the base color, I chose US Army Sand FS-30227. On the Mission Models catalog that’s color MMP-086. Decals included with the kit are of very good quality for a kit this price leaving no silvering to write home about. The kit goes together without a hitch and comes with a humble yet effective photo etch set. The photo etch mesh on the engine covers looks more realistic with it. So kudos to Academy for providing this small but effective detail.
I have yet to build a Tamiya 1/48 Tiger I because I can not find the P.E. set for it. Something that wouldn’t cost them much to include with the kit.
Once finished the model received a wash with US Modern Vehicles Wash A-MIG 1007. I also added some dirt and rust streaks at random without overdoing it. Last but not least let us talk about the tracks. The kit supply the tracks are the rubber band type or individual styrene links. In all honesty and in *my eyes* (mileage may vary), I don’t see a big difference detail crispness wise. I fact, I noticed that more than not, the individual links are filled with sink marks. Could have been my copy? I don’t know and at the same time, I don’t think so. That sink mark is on the ”rubber boot” of the link and will require filling and sanding. You can fill with putty and sand those that will be visible near the main and return sprocket or use the rubber tracks which was the route I chose. Other than that, there is no mayor complain about this kit. It now resides next to my 1/35 M1151 also from Academy.